Excursion Route 3 - Eyüp

Sokullu Mehmet Paşa Complex, Siyavuş Paşa Evladı Tomb, Pertev Paşa Tomb, Zal Mahmut Paşa Complex, Defterdar Mahmut Çelebi Mosque.

Outside the city walls, Eyüp has a large number of the buildings built by Sinan.  Unfortunately, many of these have already lost their 16th century architectural characteristics.  Yet, since those buildings that have retained their authenticity are close to one another here, the Eyüp excursion route is quite interesting.  The Mosque of Eyüp Sultan, its surroundings, and the Pierre Loti Café, from where you can view the captivating silhouette of Istanbul, will all add to the experiences on this route at Eyüp.

 A vıew from the Sokollu Mehmet Paşa Madrasa

We recommend starting your walk following a breakfast at the Pierre Loti Café.  The cable car will help those who don’t wish to take the trouble to hike up to the highest point.  The first structure to visit is the complex built by Sokullu Mehmet Pasha, one of the most powerful Grand Viziers in Ottoman history.

Across from the Complex is the Tomb of the Sons of Siyavuş Pasha.  The inscription at the entrance may be confusing for some.  Since Siyavuş Pasha had this tomb built for his sons who died before him, in 16th century sources, it has been recorded as the Tomb of the Sons of Siyavuş Pasha.  Because he did not have a tomb built specifically for him, he was buried here as well.  There is an interesting relationship between Sinan and Siyavuş Pasha:  Sinan had proposed Mehmet Subaşı as the Master Architect after him.  Yet, Siyavuş Pasha was considering Davut Ağa for this position.  In fact, he appointed Davut Ağa as the Master Architect after Sinan’s death. 

The Beybaba street behind the tomb leads to one other tomb, this one built by Vizier Pertev Pasha.  Sinan’s acquaintance with Pertev Pasha goes back to almost 30 years before Sinan’s death.  Pertev Pasha was the trustee of the Shehzade Mehmet Mosque during its construction, during Sinan’s apprenticeship period.  The structure is an open tomb today and we don’t have much information about its original form nor the occupants of the four other graves there.

Zal Mahmut Paşa complex

Followıng the lunch at the resaurant on Eyüp Sultan Square, take a short walk to ZalPasha Avenue.  There, you will see the Zal Mahmut Pasha Complex built by Zal Mahmut Pasha and his wife, Shah Sultan.  In all likelihood, the structure to attract your attention most in this complex will be the mosque with its high walls with multiple openings.

As much as the unusual appearance of this mosque for a 16th century structure, the life stories of its donors are especially interesting.  The second marriage of Shah Sultan, the daughter of Selim II, was to Zal Mahmut Pasha.  Her first marriage was to Çakırcıbaşı Hasan Pasha.  There is a similarity between these two men; they were both accused of the deaths of princes at different times.  Both events are noted among the factors that prepared Selim II’s ascension to the throne.  Following these events, Mahmut Pasha, who was a strongman and a wrestler as well, acquired the title ‘Zal’, the hero who symbolized strength in Iranian legends.

The mosque of Defterdar Mahmut Çelebi is a five-minute walk from here.  It is especially striking for its artwork in calligraphy.  Mahmut Çelebi, an accomplished calligrapher himself, who headed the Treasury Department for a long time, was a student of the famous Calligrapher Sheikh Hamdullah.  His tomb, which is an open-type structure, is located in the cemetery section of the mosque; it can be visited at all times.

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